Qeshm Travel Guide

Qeshm (Persian: قشم - pronounced kē´shm is an island situated in the Strait of Hormuz, and separated from the mainland by the Clarence Strait/Khuran in the Persian Gulf (26°50′N 56°0′E).

Geography

Qeshm from space, February 1996

Qeshm Island is located a few kilometers off the southern coast of Iran (Persian Gulf), opposite the port cities of Bandar Abbas and Bandar Khamir. The island, which hosts a 300 square kilometer free zone jurisdiction, is 135 km long, and lies strategically in the Strait of Hormuz, just 60 kilometers from the Omani port of Khosab, and about 180 kilometers from the UAE port of Rashia. The island, at its widest point, located near the center of the island, spans 40 kilometers. Similarly, at it narrowest point, the island spans 9.4 kilometers. The island has a surface are of 1491 square kilometers and is 2.5 times the size of Bahrain. Qeshm city, located at the easternmost point of the island, is 22 kilometers from Bandar Abbas while the closest point of the island is but two kilometers from the mainland.

The average temperature on the island is approximately 27 °C. The warmest months are June through August, and the coldest from October to January. The average rainfall is 183.2 mm.

The island comprises 59 towns and villages and the population is approximately 100,000. The local population is involved in fishing, dhow construction, trade and services. An additional 30,000 are involved in administrative and industrial workforce and students.

Explorer William Baffin was mortally wounded on Qeshm in 1622 during a battle against Portuguese forces.

Plans have also been made to built a bridge to connect Qeshm with the rest of Iran.

History

Portuguese castle at Qeshm Island

Historical records concerning the Qeshm island date far back into the pre-Islamic era. Names as Qeshm, Keshm, Kish and Tunb mark the lengthy stay of Ilamids in the area, several centuries before Christ's birth. It is, apparently, the island called Alexandria or Aracia by Ptolemy (Book 6, Chap. IV), in the 2nd century CE and as Alexandria by Ammianus Marcellinus (xxiii.6.42) in the 4th century. On account of its strategic geopolitical situation, near the mouth of the Persian Gulf, it has been frequently attacked by invaders including Ilamids (Elamites), Umayyads, Abbasids as well as the Portuguese and British, whose ravages are still evident. During Sassanids administration the island was called Abarkawan. According to historical records, Qeshm Island has been famous as a trade and navigation center. Its economy flourished during the Dialameh and Buyid eras, as trade vessels sailed between it and China, India and Africa.

Economy

Chahkouh Valley at Qeshm Island

Fishing is a leading occupation practiced by the inhabitants of the island. On what little cultivated land there is, dates and melons are grown. Salt is mined on the southeastern coast.

Qeshm is famous for its wide range of ecotourist attractions such as the Hara marine forests. According to environmentalists, about 1.5% of the world birds and 25% of Iran's native birds annually migrate to the forests, which are the first national geo park. An ancient Portuguese castle, historic mosques, Seyyed Mozaffar and Bibi Maryam shrines, various ponds and mangroveforests are among the tourism attractions in the island, which sits across the azure waters of the Persian Gulf. Several domes, salty caves, the preserved area in Shibderaz Village where turtles hatch, as well as numerous ports and wharfs are among the tourist potentials of the island.

Qeshm is also a supposed site of the Garden of Eden according to Cassells Bible.

Stars Valley at Qeshm Island

In the 1st ten year plan, in note 19, the law provided for the creation of free trade zones and three locations were identified as such in the year 1991. They were Kish Island, Qeshm Island and Chabahar. In the Iranian year 1369, equivalent to 1991 in the Gregorian calendar, the island was transformed into a "Trade and Industrial Free Area" with the goal of creating the largest Free Area between Europe and the Far East.^[4]To that end, Qeshm Island was granted considerable leeway to set its own policies, independent of the central government, which had often been seen as an impediment to growth in many sectors of the economy. However, the Island retains the advantages associated with its connection to the mainland, including the rights to explore and develop oil and gas opportunities.

Iran Air Flight 655

On July 3, 1988, an Iran Air Airbus A300 (Iran Air Flight 655) was shot down by a United States Navy guided missile cruiser USS Vincennes just south of the island, resulting in 290 civilian fatalities. The wreckage crashed 2.5 kilometers off Qeshm's southern coast.

Economy, Culture, and Education

Qeshm Institute of Higher Education

Qeshm island is situated in the north of Hormoz straight. Qeshm city is located in the north-east of the island. The weather is hot and humid over there.It was also called "Altavileh" (long) island due to its long length. In the time of Mongol upheaval, the Head of Touran tribe resided in Qeshm and tried to develop it, so he was entitled to Touranshah.

In 1507 AD., the Portuguese constructed important military fortifications and this situation continued till the reign of Shah Abbas Safavid.

In 1645 AD., the Dutch gathered an important military force in the Persian Gulf and occupied Qeshm island under the pretext that Iran has not observed the contents of the commercial treaty. But they left the island due to its hot weather.

water cistern Qeshm island

After the death of Nader Shah in 1747 AD., domination of Iran over the Persian Gulf was weakened and Javasem Arab tribes expanded their violation and finally in 1760 AD., conquered the island.

In 1882 AD., Basaidou in Qeshm island was chosen as England military Naval Base. English left the island due to its hot weather.

After Islamic Revolution in 1979 AD, Qeshm became more important and was declared the second "Trade Free Port" of Iran in 1989. In 1990, the customhouse was stablished in the island and it is one of the busiest commercial and industrial regions in the Persian Gulf and Omman sea. With mobilizing this port, commercial exchanges with neighboring states expanded considerably.

portugese fort

Island Names

Qeshm, the largest Island in Iran and Persian Gulf, has had several names in its past. Some of the previous names are as follows: Bourkhat, Deraz, Kavan, Abr Kavan, Bari Kavan, Ebne Kavan, Abar Kaman, Abar Kanan, Kish, Ghis, Loft, Basaeedou, Qeshm, and finally Qeshm.
In Dehkhoda’s Dictionary, Qeshm has the following meanings: what people are made of, Nature, Narrow water may, etc.
The traditions and customs of people on the islands of Qeshm, Hormoz, Lark and Hengam have been pretty much the same. They have seldom been exposed to western and foreign cultures and phenomena. The people are generally patient, warm blooded, hospitable, and friendly. They socialize warmly and have a high degree of solidarity.
Qeshm island’s people always help together in unforeseen events and stay to gather in time of need.
They are strict Muslims and believe in the principles of Islam. Their ceremonies and religious Eids are under the auspices of Islamic customs and traditions.

Beliefs and Convictions

· Based on an ancient ritual, the inhabitants on Thursday nights prepare an incense and give the whole house a good fragrance.

· In the past the people of Qeshm would not plant trees without thorns: such as silk flowers and believed that they were bad luck, However ever since 18 to 20 years ago, they are planting such trees.

· They do not like mutton and like to eat goat meat.

· They believe fish to be cold and think crab, lobster and shrimp to have warm meat

· It is believed that lion & Hoover Fish are good for milk feeding mothers.

· If one of their boats are in a Typhoon, they promise god to visit a holy shrine of feed the needy or fast for 5 to 10 days if they get out of the situation. After reaching shore safely, either immediately or maximum within a week they would do as they promised.

· If two chicken or birds put their heads on each other's ears, people believe there is a guest on the way.

· If a chicken or crow sings, people believe they are going to eve a guest from far away.

· People respect camels and say that the prophet Mohammed used to ride on a camel.

Local Foods

On Qeshm Island, fish, shrimp, crab, mutton, beef dates, flour, sugar, oil and other food items are used to prepare delicacies, including desserts.

· Foods made with shrimp

· Food made with crab & lobster

· Various type of food using fish

"The people of Qeshm make various dishes with Shrimp"

Such fried Shrimp, Shrimp Havari, Boiled Shrimp, and Shrimp Roll.

A) Dried Shrimp
First Shrimp is put in water, then peeled and cleaned. It is washed with lemon juice and salt to remove the odor. Than the dried shrimp is mixed with rice and Turmeric or curry powder, this dish is called Havari Shrimp.
After cleaning the dried shrimp, some have it as a fast food with bread, vegetables and dates.

B) Fresh Shrimp
First the Skin is peeled off, then they remove the intestine which is full of dirt and mud. Then the shrimp is washed and mixed with flour / eggs/salt and curry power. It is then fried in oil. After frying the shrimp gets red. It is then placed in a platter and dressed with green cucumber, red tomatoes pickles/vegetables and onions. At this point it is ready to be served.

C) shrimp Cutlet
The shrimp must be completely washed and cleaned. Then it is grinded. The ground shrimp is fried with flour and eggs. Vola/there you have it.

"A Variety of foods may prepared with crab"

On Qeshm Island, people call crab ”Singo”. The residents of the ports and island on the Persian Gulf who understand the nutritional value of crab/prepare various dishes with it. At their parties and feast crabmeat can of then be seen.
The local folks believe crabmeat is good for backache, muscular pains in the arms and legs, chest pain, and other muscular pains. Crab is used to make stew, Istanbuli Rice, cut let, Havari, crab rolls, fried on an open fire, boiled crab.

A) Crab Cutlet
For making crab cutlet, enough crab is bought and brought home. Them they boil the crabs with salt water and let it cool down. The meat is taken out of the bones and ground with onions. Then the grand mint is mixed with salt, curry power and pepper. Feast your eyes and enjoy!

B) Crab Delight
First the crab is boiled and remove the meat without harming the skin on its back or under the belly. The different cooked parts of the crab is kept. The meat is removes and fried with potatoes and tomatoes. Then the meat and vegetables are placed back into the skin in a way so that the meat does not spill out. The skin edge is sewn together. If an oven is available, the crab is put in the oven. Then they try to prepare the crab in its original live form and serve it.

"A Variety of foods with fish"

From the various dishes made with Fish, we can name the following: Fish Havari, Ghalieh Fish, Tah chin-e Fish, Fish Kabob, Fish Grilled on an open fire, Fish Rolls.

A) Sourakh or Souragh:
For Making Sourakh, The islanders obtain sardines and cut their heads off. Then they clear the stomach and place in salt water. It is left there to get ready for a week. Then they put Gelak or Hormoz Red Soil on it and it is melted in the water. So it completely covers all the fish. At that point some skin of lemon is added and closes the tin pot. They cover the holes in the pot. After 40 days Sourakh is ready to be eaten.

B) Mahyave is made of a type of fish called Mattota.
The fish is placed on the sands of the beach and totally dried. Then they ground it and separate the sands from it. Some herbs and spices are added such as curry powder, pepper coriander are added such as curry powder, pepper coriander. Then everything is mixed to gather and kept in a bottle. The bottle is exposed to sunlight for 20 to 30 days. After this period of time, this material can be consumed either by itself by rubbing it on bread or as a side dish.

C) Soor Fish
Different types of Hover, Sangsar, Sorkhou, etc. Which are various kinds of fish are prepared. First all the fish are rinsed off and cleaned. They add salt water to them and keep them in a dish. Skin of lemon is added to remove any odors. Then the fish is used just like any ordinary type of fish or meat.

People’s Clothes

The women of Qeshm like all the other southern parts and islands are seldom seen on the streets. When they leave home,the use a special cover which is called, “ Bourke” comes in different size. Some are big and wide enough to cover the whole face and only have two eyes where the eyes are placed. Others are narrow and only cover part of the eyes and eyebrows. In addition to Bourke, ladies cover their heads with a thin cloth, called “jelopol” and wear a chador or Veil on top of that. Their blouses are also special and usually they wear two blouses on top of each other.
The trousers are interesting as well. They use a thick cloth. The upper part of the pants are loose and the bottom part is tight. At the ankle, golden and color full yarns are sewn on which gives the pants a special effect. The men, like other southern parts of the country, wear a long, white or colorful shirt. Locally it is called “ Jimeh”. The long shirt covers them from shoulder to ankle. They are free to move around and it is suitable for the southern parts. Some people cover their hips and waist with a piece of cloth instead of wearing pants and wear a hat with holes in it called, “Araghchin”.

The important natural, historical and religious sites of Qeshm township are:
hQeshm, Larak and Hengam islands,
hPortuguese castle,
hBibi and Kharboz water reservoirs,
hPortuguese well,
hOld city of Kharboz,
hKoolghan ancient hill,
hBalatal dam,
hPilgrimage places of Bibi Mariyam, Shah Shahid, Sheikh Andar Abi and Seyed Mozafar.
hJame’ mosque

About Kharzeb City in Hormozgan province

This ancient city is related to the Sassanide era, and till the 4th century AH. was a thriving city. Earthenware and other evidences have been found through surveys made here. The estimated length of this city is 7 km. and sweet-water was utilized here.

http://www.hums.ac.ir/english/province/hormozgan%20english/qeshm_island.htm